You’ll see “Owned by Eli Zabar & Sons” painted on the window of Broome Street Bakery, which Eli Zabar has opened with his twins, Sasha and Oliver. The Lower East Side bakery is producing excellent breads, breakfast pastries, loaf cakes, muffins, rolls and scones several times a day. Brioches and small baguettes are used for sandwiches. Chickens roasted in the bread oven, soups and salads are available. The bakery is next to Oliver Zabar’s cocktail bar, Devon. His father, whose various stores and cafes are clustered on the Upper East Side, said the Lower East Side was new territory for him. “I’m an Upper West Side boy,” he said. A case in point is his irresistible version of Louis Lichtman’s Russian coffee cake, long gone from 86th Street and Amsterdam Avenue, perhaps with a cup of the bakery’s $1 coffee.
Broome Street Bakery, 254 Broome Street (Orchard Street), 212-860-0401, no web yet.
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Florence Fabricant is a food and wine writer. She writes the weekly Front Burner and Off the Menu columns, as well as the Pairings column, which appears alongside the monthly wine reviews. She has also written 12 cookbooks.
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