The chef John Fraser’s latest Manhattan restaurant breaks the unwritten rule that Aegean cooking has to be predictable.
An Ode to Aegean Cooking
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By Pete Wells
It has not been hard to find Greek food of very high quality in Midtown Manhattan since at least the 1990s, when Estiatorio Milos dropped anchor. What was much harder to find, whether at Milos or at the other restaurants that followed it, was food that would surprise you.
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